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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. However, nestled near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small place securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.